The Deer and the Dove: Half duck and beef fat potatoes
Photograph by Emma Fishman

The Deer and the Dove
Half duck and beef fat potatoes

Terry Koval’s greatest strength as a chef is the way he tackles cooking with unabashed joy. Order his duck, and you’ll be amazed by the smoked breast and the confit leg sharing the limelight with meltingly tender pink-eyed peas, bright Hickory Hills mustard greens, and a soothing squash puree. I always order a side of his beef fat potatoes with scallions and nutritional yeast. On the way out, score some fresh bagels from Koval’s next-door shop, B-Side. 155 Sycamore Street, Decatur

Matthews Cafeteria
Fried chicken with three sides

The generously portioned, old-timey Southern food packed by this venerable institution is extra comforting to me in times of stress. There are rotating daily specials I watch for, but one favorite that’s always on the menu is classic fried chicken the color of pale gold. Mashed potatoes with a ladle of gravy, festive corn dressing, and little nubbins of crisp fried okra might not be available on the same day, but when they are, I feel like I’ve won the lottery. 2299 Main Street, Tucker

Taqueria San Pancho
Tacos al vapor by the pound

This humble, Jalisco-style taqueria sells boiled meats by the pound, which is one of the best possible ways to eat tacos for days. The cabeza (beef cheeks) and the lengua (beef tongue) are particularly luscious and come with tiny, tender, white corn tortillas and all the chopped onion, fresh cilantro, crunchy radishes, and spicy salsas you’ll need for ideal taco assembly. Steam the tortillas over boiling water to reheat them the appropriate way. 4880 Lawrenceville Highway, Tucker

— Christiane Lauterbach, Atlanta restaurant critic

The General Muir: Beet Reuben and matzo ball soup
Photograph by Emma Fishman

Staplehouse
Pork loin with tortillas and alkaline noodles with kale and turnips

No longer a prix-fixe, multicourse affair, Staplehouse is now (maybe forever?) a market slinging to-go food that’s no less ambitious—and a lot more affordable. My favorite of the composed dishes is the simplest: Bear Creek Farms pork loin smoked over pecan wood, served with thick tortillas and salsa macha you’ll want to put on everything. Alkaline noodles tossed with housemade chili crisp also slay. 541 Edgewood Avenue, Old Fourth Ward

The General Muir
Beet Reuben and matzo ball soup

Yes, it’s borderline sacrilegious to bypass the General Muir’s achingly tender corned beef for this vegetarian Reuben. But the thinly sliced, fragrantly smoked beets that stand in for the meat are a splendid understudy, especially for the beef-averse. Speaking of, several vegetarians have confessed that they bend their rules only for the GM’s matzo ball soup, which is damn near velvety with schmaltz and anchored by an oversized pillow-dumpling. 1540 Avenue Place, Emory

Las Brasas
Pollo las brasa, ceviche pescado de Peru, and chaufa marisco mixto

Peruvian rotisserie chicken served with huacatay (creamy black-mint sauce) is the main draw, but I’m just as smitten with the chaufa marisco mixto—a massive mound of fried rice brimming with texturally perfect Spanish octopus, flounder, shrimp, and squid. And of the half-dozen ceviches, I’m partial to the straight-up flounder, served the Peruvian way with choclo corn and slices of steamed sweet potatoes. 614 Church Street, Decatur

— Mara Shalhoup, Atlanta deputy editor

Crawfish Shack: Fried catfish and shrimp
Photograph by Emma Fishman

Crawfish Shack
Fried catfish and shrimp

This meal holds up so shockingly well in transit, it’s almost as if it were designed for takeout. The cornmeal-battered catfish is crispy and fresh, and the sides stand out as much as the seafood—small but perfectly sweet hush puppies, buttery Cajun red potatoes, and corn coated with Crawfish Shack’s signature spicy boil seasoning. Order a side of Cajun fries, too—potato overload be damned. The Old Bay in the spice mix really pops. 4337 Buford Highway, Chamblee

Busy Bee Café
Fried chicken (dark) with fried okra and baked macaroni and cheese

Hot, crispy, and endlessly comforting, the famous fried chicken at this historic restaurant is every bit as perfect as you’d hoped—and will forever ruin your favorite fast-food chicken joints. Add fresh fried okra, buttery cornbread, and creamy, extra-thick mac and cheese for a meal that will most likely lead to a nap. You’ll fall asleep full and happy. 810 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, Atlanta University Center

Bell Street Burritos
Pork and green chili grilled burrito

It almost goes without saying that Atlanta’s best Mission-style burrito is a takeout champion. But no matter which fillings you prefer—I’m team pork and green chili (add cilantro, grilled onions, jalapeños, and chipotle salsa)—you must “grill my burrito” for a quesadilla-like effect that puts plain tortillas to shame. For those of you missing the restaurant’s squeeze-bottles of housemade salsas, you can order them by the pint. Locations in Buckhead, Inman Park, and Tucker

— Myrydd Wells, Atlanta digital editor

Grub Fresh Bowls & Wraps: Sweet and spicy salmon bowl
Photograph by Emma Fishman

Grub Fresh Bowls & Wraps
Sweet and spicy salmon bowl

Steps from Delta HQ, this fast-casual spot with an unremarkable facade is actually a first-of-its-kind, Black-owned restaurant serving beautiful, made-to-order rice bowls. The sweet and spicy salmon bowl, with black and white sesame seeds, green onions, purple cabbage, and snappy edamame, rightfully hogs the spotlight. What a welcome addition to an area where locals have plenty of fine carryout food but could use more options on the healthier side. 876 Virginia Avenue, Hapeville

Mujo
10-piece nigiri omakase

Mujo launched last fall as a takeout-only sushi pop-up operating Thursdays through Sundays at Cooks & Soldiers. Its strongest selling point: Edomae-style treatment of exceptionally fresh fish (often sourced from fishermen in Japan). Order the 10-piece nigiri omakase, laid luxuriously over perfectly vinegary rice, and take the smallest, slowest bites possible—it’s a whole vibe. Some rare good news that broke in December: Mujo is going brick-and-mortar this year. 691 14th Street, Westside

Lake & Oak BBQ
Brisket with Chicago Red sauce

Time, which everyone seemed to have both too much and not enough of in 2020, slows down in the good way when you bite into Todd Richards’s and Joshua Lee’s perfectly smoked brisket. This is a masterclass in meat enjoyment, magnified by the tanginess of Richards’s Chicago Red sauce. Yes, it feels overindulgent. Balance your carnivorous excess with smoked chicken collard greens and brussels and cabbage slaw. 2358 Hosea L. Williams Drive, East Lake

— Mike Jordan, Atlanta contributing writer